Marblehead doesn't like being told what to do. That was true in the 1600s, when it was a rocky fishing village under Salem, and it's still true today in the vigorous debates at Abbot Hall. The friction was there at the founding. It produced one of the more destructive riots of the colonial era. Four hundred years later, it's still loud at open town meeting.
1629 – 1649 The founding
A town born out of friction
There's a story behind the two founding dates you see around town. Marblehead was settled around 1629 as a fishing village under Salem, but its settlers were a very different crowd from Salem's Puritans. They arrived with no shared plan for how to worship or govern themselves.
It didn't go well. Early colonial court records show Marbleheaders being hauled into Salem over and over for drunkenness, foul language, and skipping church, all offenses under Puritan law. Thomas Gary was whipped for drunkenness in 1642. Twenty years of it ended on December 12, 1648, when a Salem town meeting voted, subject to the General Court's approval, to grant Marblehead its independence. The town was formally incorporated on May 2, 1649.
Because Marblehead was legally part of Salem until 1649, no public records were kept locally before then. The town's documented civic life begins with its independence.
"the greatest Towne for fishing in New England"The King's Royal Agent, after visiting Marblehead in 1660
1638 – 1727 Four seats of government
When the meeting house was the government
For the first century, church and town government shared a roof. The first meeting house went up on Old Burial Hill around 1638, serving as both place of worship and seat of town affairs, as was standard in early New England. A town meeting in September 1695 voted to build a replacement, and the Old Meeting House on Franklin Street was finished in 1696.
By 1727, Marblehead had grown into one of the wealthiest seaports in the colonies, and church and government had started to pull apart. Officials funded a dedicated civic building that year: the yellow Georgian Old Town House still standing in the middle of Washington Street, designed by Nathan Bowen, with a town hall upstairs and a public market below. Counting from the beginning, Abbot Hall is the town's fourth seat of government: First Meeting House (1638), Old Meeting House (1696), Old Town House (1727), and finally Abbot Hall (1876).
1684 A legal scare
The year the town's deed disappeared
In 1684, Charles II revoked the Massachusetts Bay Company's charter and invalidated every land title that derived from it. Overnight, Marbleheaders had no legal documentation that they owned the ground under their own town.
The town's solution was to buy a deed from the original landowners. On September 16, 1684, descendants of the Naumkeag sachem Nanepashemet sold the town their roughly 3,700 acres. That deed survives to this day, hanging in the Selectmen's room at Abbot Hall a few feet from the Spirit of '76.
1773 – 1774 The smallpox riot
The riot that out-burned the Tea Party
When smallpox struck in 1773, an August town meeting debated building a public inoculation hospital on a harbor island. The meeting voted the idea down, but agreed to let private parties fund one provided the selectmen could regulate it.
The four proprietors were a who's-who of the town's coming revolutionary leadership: John Glover, his brother Jonathan Glover, Azor Orne, and Elbridge Gerry. They bought Cat Island, now Children's Island, on September 2, 1773, and opened what was called the Essex Hospital.
It went badly. Furious townspeople rioted for days, blackening their faces, burning the boat that supplied the island, and smashing the proprietors' windows. In January, four men were caught stealing contaminated clothing from the island, apparently hoping to spread the disease and discredit the hospital. On the night of January 26, 1774, two Marbleheaders sailed out and burned the building to the ground.
The proprietors closed the Essex Hospital under public pressure. None of them lost their political standing. Gerry, the man whose name gave us gerrymander, went on to sign the Declaration and serve as U.S. vice president. Glover commanded the Marblehead Regiment that rowed Washington's army across the Delaware on Christmas night, 1776.
1765 – 1776 Revolution
The Cradle of Liberty on Washington Street
The Old Town House hosted protests against the Stamp Act and the Boston Port Act. Sons of Liberty leaders like Gerry and Glover debated independence inside it. Town meeting itself was used to press the colonial cause: in 1771 a meeting appointed Deacon William Doliber to a committee of grievances, charged with corresponding with other towns about the province's rights.
In 1774, after the Boston Port Bill shut Boston's harbor, Marblehead was designated the colony's official port of entry in Boston's place. It was a windfall for the town's merchants. They declined it and invited the Boston merchants to use Marblehead's wharves and warehouses for free.
The colonial record has a darker chapter too. The only Marbleheader executed in the 1692 witch trials, Wilmot Redd, was arrested by the town's own constable, James Smith, before being tried and hanged in Salem. A commemorative stone for her stands on Old Burial Hill, where the town's civic life had begun a half-century earlier.
1875 – 1877 The modern seat
A barrel-maker's bequest
The town hall Marbleheaders use today came from a gift, and, fittingly, from a couple of contentious town meetings. Benjamin Abbot, a Marblehead-born cooper who grew wealthy in the Boston barrel trade, left the town roughly $100,000 when he died in 1872.
After considerable argument, the May 1875 town meeting voted to erect a brick building with an audience hall seating at least 1,200, a library and reading room, a fireproof vault for the town's records, and offices for its boards. A December meeting appropriated $75,000 of the bequest, and the building was dedicated in 1877. Inside hang the originals of Archibald Willard's The Spirit of '76 and that 1684 deed from the Nanepashemet heirs.
